Day 19

I knew that I need to prepare myself for long journey, because instructions to get into Kodaikanal were already a little bit overwhelming. From Kodaikanal to Theni (3.5h), Theni to Bathalakundu (1.5h), Bathalakundu to Kodaikanal (3h), but I think the times were definitely rounded up a little bit and transition times were negligible, because on every station I just asked and correct bus was already there.

First part of travel we were going down and I wondered if whole journey will be in hill regions. I also wondered if crossing state boundaries will be noticeable. Especially because there was Tamil script visible often alongside Malayalam in Munnar and its region. But there was actually sort of security barrier, but it was open. After crossing it, Malayalam script completely vanished.

Going along the journey I soaked all the details and all the apparent differences I could notice from the bus. The most obvious and immediate difference was that all the party flags and symbolism changed from communistic imagery to Dravidian party symbolism. There were presence of Chief Minister Stalin and other Tamil politicians. But not only politicians, I had general impression that Tamils worship their heroes way more than Malayalis. Kolam, sort of temporary drawing usually at the front of the houses was visible sometimes in Kerala, but I got the impression that it was more common here. Christianity in public was definitely less prominent than in Kerala, giving more space for Hinduism sites, but it didn't vanish completely

Tilaka, the marks on their foreheads are quite prominent here, something I didn't really noticed much in Kerala outside of Munnar. Skin complexion is on average darker. But it needs to be said that here, in both Kerala and Tamil Nadu there's wide variety of skin tones and I'm talking only about averages. I don't think Tamils are that much darker than Malayalis (again, worth repeating: on average), but difference is still visible. That's pretty much settles question I got from impressions in Munnar.

Another thing I noticed is that although almost everyone wear some footwear, there were few people going barefoot. In Kerala people were going barefoot outside only maybe in proximity to their shops/stalls or homes. Men also wear often here some sort of scarfs, usually in one color. I wondered if it means some sort of party affiliation or other, but maybe I over think it and it's just fashion.

At one of the stations when I was looking for a bus I couldn't really understand what bus guys were telling me, because one bus pointed at another and that one at the first. Hijra girl told me which I should choose so I entered one bus. Normally I wouldn't call hijra every transwoman just because it's India, but she entered bus soon after, behaved quite loudly and with exaggeration, singed some song and asked people for some money for her bus. On the other hand, she wasn't dressed particularly over the top, just like regular Indian girl.

Buses in Tamil Nadu seemed to have more comfortable seats, but were generally more loud and colorful, although it depends heavily on specific bus. First bus I got after getting in Tamil Nadu (so at the Theni-Bathalakundu part) was so loud, music was played and it used constantly honking, one type more "melodic", other more "regular". I thought I have become a little bit used to honking and such things, but I felt a little bit sensory overload.

Except these cultural differences I had impression that landscape visible changed and that things are more scorched by the sun, but there's some possibility that I saw what I already expected to see, knowing about climate zones. But it applies only to areas out of the hills, because on the last bus when we were climbing back up, the mountainous region looked like nature around Munnar.

When we were approaching Kodaikanal I wanted to leave at the earlier stop, but somehow I missed it and I reached to the main town in upper part, but my stay was in bottom part of town. I didn't have much choice than take taxi with my unfortunate choice to bring suitcase to India. They brought me to the address that I gave, but there was some confusion when we arrived and driver said to wait while he was arguing over something with people there. They asked me if I have room booked and I had to stay until they settled something. I became anxious with the situation, not understanding what's going on. From hindsight, as far as I could understand, the place was like a complex of probably independent stays so confusion came out of that.

Eventually the person I was communicating came and lead me to my room. I said that I run out of cash and I need to go to ATM or I can by card, otherwise I don't have online payment options. He became unnerved, called someone and one dude came who was not exactly welcoming. He asked me rudely what's the problem so I repeated. The nice one then said that I should go with him to ATM on motorbike, so another ride on motorbike up and down was on the table. Although I started to get used to riding them (as passenger), there still low level of anxiety, especially on hilly terrain.

When I settled everything I climbed up to main town. Kodaikanal felt little bit more rough, less touristic town than Munnar, although in Munnar I didn't see much of proper residential areas. I entered some viewpoint promenade, but because it was so cloudy - foggy that even the trees just below the barriers were barely visible. On the promenade there were people who wanted photos with me. First it was big group of boys. Then it was few girls. That felt new, usually girls were too shy to ask, although these ones were definitely excited. It's hard to judge and I didn't written it in previous entries, but I actually felt in few first days of the trip that people didn't ask me for photos as often as I assumed they will - although they engaged me in different ways a lot more than I assumed. But here it was different, more people wanted photos together, even when I was walking randomly on the street. I don't know if it's difference between Tamils and Malayalis or maybe just because Kodaikanal brings mostly Indian tourists, foreigners being rather rare.

Afterwards when it was already getting dark I went to the lake where around whole evening life of the town happens. I enjoyed atmosphere here for a bit, buying snacks, tea, talking with people until I decided that's time to return. I was excited for the next day, because I saw that distances between various point of interests are not that far so I decided to go for more proper trekking, which I wasn't able to do in Munnar.

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