day 22

As I didn't have much other sensible options, I taken taxi to the bus station. It was funny in a way that the price rate of ₹400 is basically the same I paid for whole bus ride to Kanyakumari, which is like overall 7 h long.

I was leaving the mountainous regions. I was quite satisfied, but I felt that it's still so much to explore here. When we were driving through Madurai I felt weirdly that I am just passing through the city that was always on my priority list, but the way I wanted to spent here the pongal and meet with Haran's contacts, it was still too early for the city. I wondered about the city, the only point of comparison being Ernakulam as the city sizes go, but the vibe was quite different.

At the bus stop in Madurai one hijra entered to ask for money and at first I didn't want to give anything, but in the end I gave her ₹10 and she put hand on my head and made some blessings. Also some young woman with baby in the arms knocked to the window to me and asked for food. I couldn't really look at her, but she was standing there for extending period of time and knocking sometimes. I remembered the words of guide woman from Fort Kochi that begging in Kerala is forbidden, so almost non existent with some exceptions where people try to do that in more hidden ways. It is hard to really make generalizations based on just handful of experiences I had, but during whole stay in Kerala I saw begging only few times and not really done in the open.

One notable thing that happened at the bus, but otherwise could be barely noticeable came after one of last major cities before Kanyakumari - Tirunelveli. New passengers entered and one girl sat next to me. Soon after when bus started to move again, ticket collector suggested her other seat at the window, next to the old lady. Although the only mode of transportation here I saw that follow certain gender separation were city buses in Kerala (although not very strictly, prone to some exceptions and adjustments), it was still significant that there's perception for need of such suggestions.

I didn't pay much attention to the landscape this time around, but it seems my impressions from first day in Tamil Nadu were confirmed. Ecosystem being more dry and scorched by the sun, with notable exception when we were approaching Kanyakumari, ecosystem looked more mixed, more Kerala-like with its lush greenery and water. Of course, it could be the case I just reinforce my previous assumptions, but satellite images pretty much confirm it. Around Kanyakumari I looked at the stunning huge rocks filling the landscape.

When I reached Kanyakumari my hotel was very close so fortunately I didn't need any transport. I really have to take quick wash, so after registering myself in the hotel and refreshing myself I left to explore the town, but it was already dark. Again fortunately, hotel is very close to the main beach and all monuments so it was just short walk away.

Immediately after going out I felt again how warm is here even during evenings and nights. When I approached the main area I had completely different impression in comparison to other coastal cities. It was clearly pilgrimage center and everything that it brings with it. There were a lot of people going around in monochrome clothes, mostly groups claded in reds or others in black. It was groups of women who were dressed in red, and men in black, but there was some small mix ups. There were some men dressed in red among the women and some women and girls among black dressed men, especially relatives like daughters. Men were dressed in black mundu/veshti and often bare chested or black shirts and kurtas. Women were variously dressed in sarees or churidars, mostly depending on the age. Pilgrims was walking around barefoot.

When I reached just there, at the southernmost tip of India I immediately felt overwhelming emotions for some reason. There were a lot of going around, crowds of pilgrims and tourists (mostly internal, other Indians), stalls and sellers with their items laid down on the streets everywhere. And of course there were Thiruvalluvar statue and Vivekananda Memorial, two big monuments built on the small islands just on the shore.

I sat at the stairs-platforms leading to rocky beach and facing monuments. Obviously I have been approached and talked by many people. Group of pilgrims claded in black from Hyderabad talked with me for a bit and invited to go further to the rocks sticking out of the water. They were hit and lower ones often submerged by the waves. On the rocks one little girl followed me and pulled my shirt, at first I thought that maybe she's daughter of one of the guys, but she was begging me for food or money. When I returned to the stairs, the people who just befriended me shoo little girl away. I wasn't really in what language exchange happened, but they were Telugus and she responded to them lively and angrily before leaving me.

I spent little bit more time at the plaza with illuminated monuments at sight. I rounded the main temple there and then went to the connected promenade along the shore. My general impression was quite different than from other coastal cities with their beach night life. There were more stalls or simply items laid down on the ground, selling various trinkets, jewelry and clothes, but also plenty of practical stuff, like backpacks (yes, finally!). It wasn't like Kochi that focused mostly on food or Varkala that advertised its hippie India to foreign tourists. It was definitely still touristic, but directed to pilgrims. There were more sellers that looked different, sometimes quite poor if I could guess, probably coming from different states too, sometimes in the evening sitting there across their stuff. Often with whole families, children, sleeping just there at the edge of the street.

I went to eat something and along the way older guy in uniform approached me and said that he's "tourist officer", gave me paper with invitation to some cultural program the next day in the morning. He said that it's entirely free, it's under auspices of Tamil Nadu government for promoting tourism and showcasing traditional pongal celebrations, so there's no costs involved. He also asked about hotel name, to get me ride in the morning to the venue.

It actually sounded perfect. I was happy, because I arrived late to Kanyakumari today and I wanted to squeeze remaining time as much as possible.

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