Day 28
My initial plan for this day was to travel to Pondicherry, but Hari convinced me that I should visit Keeladi excavation site. It was indeed something that sounded interesting, but I didn't know how to find bus if I try to visit Keeladi and then only to Pondicherry, because it is very far and I knew it will be more complicated. Hari said that he will find night bus for me which sounded good. But because it was night bus I had to leave my baggage safe before, so I tried to explain it in English in my hotel that I want check-out, but I want to leave the baggage until afternoon. They had to call manager who could understand me, but I wasn't actually sure if he understood me, but hotel staff showed me where to leave baggage so it was apparently settled.
Because he supposed to pick me in the afternoon I felt that I have enough time to stroll around Madurai to visit whatever was left to see. Most smaller temples were closed at this time of day so I could see only outside, but there was palace - Thirumalai Nayyakar Palace - that I still didn't visit. It was really interesting from the architecture point of view. It looked a little like Mediterranean architecture, Italian or maybe even Greek, but it was definitely influenced by local Dravidian style or maybe also some North Indian styles. I was looking around for a while, but my attention was drawn eventually to the show that was going on at the corner of the palace. It was mix of acrobatic feats display with music, theater and pongal motifs like bull costumes that I already saw on the campus in Kanyakumari.
When I left palace I contacted Hari. It came out that there were some problems at his work and he had to come to work, because he planned to have free day or at least afternoon. He worried how I will get to Keeladi and he wanted to organize some transport for me, but I assured him that I will find my way. I went to the bus stand, different than the close to my hotel, and asked around for Keeladi bus. When I asked around, a policeman decided to help me. It wasn't clear for me at first that he's police, because he wasn't in uniform. But he said "wait, I will just take my stick". He went with me through whole station, along the way he poked someone sleeping at the ground with his stick. I wasn't sure what were the rules, because it's not uncommon case I saw of people sleeping or begging here. He chatted with me for a while, explaining that now bus conductors have a break so I need to wait a little.
When I boarded the bus, someone explained to me that there's no direct buses to Keeladi, but this one is going to the village close to it, so I could take the cab from there. They also explained bus conductor where I supposed to go. At the village, I didn't really want to take tuk tuk, despite one desperately calling me, knowing that I'm heading to Keeladi. It was still pongal time and it was seen from decorations and kolams. At one spot I saw gathering around provisional game area where group of boys were playing kabaddi while villagers of all ages were observing the game. People called me and I asked about the game. They asked me about name and my country and I think soon there were speakers saying about me, something about Poland. They asked me if I want to play, but I tried to explain that I know the name of the game, but not really the rules. When I was leaving, group of children were running after me to say bye. I thought that's it, but the same children returned again to say bye again. They were so excited and I thought that if any foreign tourists visit Keeladi, they probably just pass their village by tuk tuk or other way. That's why I avoid taking tuk tuks, not only because it spare me spending too much money. To see what otherwise would be unseen if I would opt to jump from point of interest to point of interest.
First I reached the museum, which was some distance away from excavations. As soon as I bought the ticket they hurried me to the movie hall which was already full and they closed the door when I entered. A mother taken her daughter on the lap in order to make space for me. Movie was short introduction to the Keedali excavation site with whole context of antique history of South India, with little pieces of Tamil pride thrown into the mix. After the movie two people asked me if I'm here as scholar, but I explained that disappointingly I'm here just as a tourist. I was the only foreigner there, but I wasn't sure if that was enough for making that assumption.
Museum consisted of group of smaller buildings with thematic exhibition revolving around ancient history and artifacts found in Keeladi. There was pottery, jewelry, coins, tools and everything in between. I really loved going around and looking at the objects and explanations. Often there were quotes from Sangam poetry which is big source for understanding history of the region and artifacts found. In the middle of the building was big and beautiful garden, full of plants with information given about their position in the context of Sangam literature. I think it wasn't blooming time for most of them, because there were no flowers like on the pictures.
After museum I went for the excavation themselves. It consisted of open roof covering group of huge square holes. Most of the artifacts found were in museum or other places, but it was still possible to see elements of pottery sticking out of the ground in the holes and such things. It was interesting in itself, but didn't take much time to see what there is to be seen.
I wanted to return to the village where I was dropped before by bus. I grabbed some pani puri and black coffee (these sleep deficits) along the way. Some older guy on motorbike said that bus stand in the village I'm going to doesn't work at this time and he taken me on the ride into Madurai direction, dropping at some bus stand. I went for one bus and started big conversation with one guy who helped me explain to bus conductor where I want to go. I have been absorbed by conversation so much that I almost missed my stop. I roamed around Madurai center, around Meenakshi Amman Temple, just to absorb for the last time the atmosphere of the place, look at the pilgrims and when I was satisfied and tired enough I went back to the direction of my hotel. I eaten something at my usual place, trying new things.
I returned to the hotel and gathered my things. It was like open roofed area of the hotel and I had to wait for Hari so I stayed there. I was beaten by mosquitoes so much that I started to move around, because my feet and ankles were already full of bites. Eventually Hari called me and said that he ordered taxi for me, but he will came to bus stand to assist me. Taxi dropped me close to the bus stand, but in opposite way. It was closing in to the time I saw on the ticket and Hari was still not here. I was getting anxious, not knowing if I should find the bus on my own. He came and said that bus started at different place and it's stuck in the traffic so there's still time. When it came I said goodbye to Hari, written one more goodbye to Harini and entered bus.
It was bus with sleeper seats. Completely new experience for me, as I never traveled in something like that. I texted with Nicha for some time, but it was getting late and I didn't have much time left so I decided to go to sleep. The bed wasn't that big for my legs, but somehow I managed to sleep for some time.
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